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Much of the Argentine Patagonia is wide open
"steppe", often tree-less desolate looking areas where the winds can sweep
across vast areas unhindered. Until the mid-1800's
the Argentine Patagonia was almost uninhabited, with settlements located primarily along
the coast. But in the late 1800's the first sheep arrived from the Falklands and a whole
industry was born. Large wool companies established huge estancias, and all the facilities
for wool producing started to be built - always near a water source. Fences, barns and
houses started to rise in the midst of the desolate vastness. Rows of poplar trees and
willows were planted and houses were built in their shelter.
In a few years ownership was concentrated in a few families
and "white gold" fueled the development of the area. Pioneers, adventurers and
wanderers from around the world came to the Argentine Patagonia to try their luck but the
big wool companies often simply took any lands that looked interesting and the pioneers
went even further west looking for lands that drew no attention and that no-one else
imagined valuable.
Around 1920 all of vastness had been claimed and the
estancias, often huge, were settled in and the way and kind of production has not changed
much since then. The cost of wool went up and down over the years but estancias stayed
profitable. The Second World War brought the final increase in wool prices. The gradual
advent of artificial textile fibers and the fierce competition from other wool producing
areas, saw the beginning of the decline of wool prices, and with it the profitability of
estancias. Because of overloading of sheep and poor soil, more and more area was needed to
sustain one head of sheep, and so more space was needed, and with more space came the need
for more fence, more gauchos, more vehicles and the subsequent cost of production went up
and profits feel further.
Today many estancias have been abandoned, and many others
have turned to tourism to supplement the estancia income.
But it is not the demands of tourism that created
hospitality in Patagonia. Because of its vastness and its desolateness, estancias were
always a haven to travelers. The stands of poplars and willows announced the location of a
estancia and make it visible for many miles. Arriving to an estancia is heralded by the
shifting of herds of sheep away from the road, the drawing closer of the trees, and the
ability to finally see the house that was announced miles away by the poplars. A stay at
an estancia means a traditional country meal, a chance to see how an estancia operates and
to learn the history of the estancia and to enjoy activities such as horseback riding.
A stay also means a variety of local activities, such as
hiking, horse back riding, mountain biking, motorlaunch excursions, birdwatching, all
dependent upon the estancia and their location. In certain instances an estancia may
be the only place to stay to explore a national park. |